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Palio di Siena Print E-mail
Written by Tania von Barkenhagen   
Monday, 15 August 2005
Viva le torre!

Our friends Michael Shaun and Alex in Siena had invited us to come see the practice run of the horse race (palio) in Siena the day before the actual race and then to join them at a dinner put on by one of the contrada (sections of town).

We started off on the wrong foot, our little Fiat wouldn't start!  After a frantic call to Alessandra who always comes to our rescue, we were off for Siena in a borrowed car.  (grazie ancora!)

Of course now we were running late because they close the Campo (main square) at a certain point to start the race, but we were happy to just be on our way. 

As warned by Michael Shaun, parking was a bitch.  Everyone was in town for the Palio and people were waiting like vultures everywhere for an open parking spot.  After circling the city, we finally just headed for a Parcheggio and even though it said complete, we got the last space available!

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We had a bit of a hike to the Campo and at this point we were pretty sure we would miss the practice horse race. 

As we walked toward the Campo we noticed all around the city in each contrada (section) they were setting up for the big dinners that would be happening later in the evening.

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Each contrada has their own flag and colors.

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The tables were set up beautifully to match the Contrada colors.

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Each Contrada was expecting at least 1500 - 2000 people for the dinner.  The dinners are used as a sort of pep rally for everyone to celebrate the night before the big event.

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At 50 Euro a plate, well, you figure out the math. 

Each Contrada had their flags up in all of their section of the city.

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It was slowly turning dusk and the Tuscan landscape in the distance was turning beautiful colors with the setting sun.

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Near the center of the city you could see all of the different Contrada flags being displayed.

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We hurried to the Campo, but as we approached people were already streaming out and we realized we had missed the practice race.

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Now mind you, this was only the practice race, but there were so many people, it was mind boggling.

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I can only imagine how crowded the Campo was when it was closed off and the horses were racing just a few minutes before.

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We were trying to find Michael Shaun, Alex, their kids, Alfredo and his parents, and well, it wasn't looking good.

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Thank goodness for cell phones! 

It was easier to walk across the dirt that served as the race track to reach out friends who were waiting near the fountain.

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We met up with everyone and it began to rain, as it has been prone to do in the early evenings lately.  Michael Shaun led us into the city to a bar where it seemed like everyone else were also avoiding the rain.

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We were a bit worried, because the dinners were being held outside and if it continued pouring down rain, there would be no dinner.

We decided to go towards the Contrada "Torre" where we were having dinner.  It was still raining but it looked like a lot of people were milling around waiting for the rain to let up so they could find their seats.  We went and found a covered area to wait under.

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Everyone was huddling around just trying to get dry as we hungrily awaited for the dinner to begin.

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Finally, after 10:00 p.m., the rain let up and everyone started moving into the Contrada and the table seating area.

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They had covered the tables with plastic to try to shield them from the rain.  The tiny streets were brightly lit by beautiful lighting on the sides of the buildings.

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We wound our way down through the maze of tables, looking for ours.....

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......along with 1500 other people also looking for their tables.

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We walked and we walked and we walked, looking for our table.

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It seriously went on forever!

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Finally, we found our table, all the way at the other end!

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As soon as everyone was seated, they started bringing out the mass quantities of food.

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We had been warned to not to eat too much of each plate, but it actually was all so good we started stuffing ourselves, plate after plate.

During the dinner, everyone started chanting and singing and running around all the seated table areas.

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Eveyone was taking part in the fun, even us!

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And the little ones in our group.

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Here we are with our friend Andrea, thoroughly enjoying the meal.

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All night long the celebration continued, singing, dancing, yelling, everyone was sure that "Torre" would win, for the first time in 44 years, tomorrow!

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We finally had to leave as they were passing out dessert, it was getting so late and Keith and I had to be at the Questura in Arezzo the next morning.  At midnight, everyone was still celebrating.

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You can view some videos from the pre-Palio "Torre" dinner here:

Video 1; Video 2; Video 3; Video 4; Video 5

...........and waddya know, our Contrada "Torre" won!!!!!

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Last Updated ( Wednesday, 05 April 2006 )
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